The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
The “fashion month” that unofficially began in early February in New York, with Marc Jacobs’ off-calendar ode to Vivienne Westwood, ended this week in Paris. Here, BoF’s editors pick the top ten shows of the Autumn/Winter 2023 ready-to-wear season. Which was your favourite? Let us know in the comments below.
Matthieu Blazy’s collection was a joyous and ingenious celebration of pure craft. Read More: Bottega Veneta’s Everything, Everywhere Essence Strikes Fashion Gold
2. Loewe
Jonathan Anderson’s gestural touches highlighted the collection’s emotional and historical undertow. Read More: Loewe and Givenchy: You Can Put Your Arms Around a Memory
Dries Van Noten practised a kind of kintsugi with clothes. Read More: New Definitions of Preciousness in Paris
4. Diesel
Glenn Martens infused Diesel’s distressed denim ethos with alien beauty. Read More: How to Remake/Remodel a Fashion Icon
Junya Watanabe’s presentation made a transcendent statement on the power of women. Read More: Rip It Up And Start Again: Why We Love Comme des Garçons, Junya and Noir
6. Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s dresses stuffed with hay and formed with straw made for sublime showpieces. Read More: In London, Heaven and Earth
7. Sacai
Chitose Abe was more attracted to stark contrasts than harmonious hybrids. Read More: At Vuitton and Sacai, the Art of Contradiction
Anthony Vaccarello’s exploration of 80s power dressing was minimal, classic and pure. Read More: Dior and Saint Laurent: Twilight of the Gods?
9. Jil Sander
Lucie and Luke Meier went somewhere bigger and bolder than usual. Read More: Unexpecting the Expected at Gucci and Jil Sander
10. Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs’ ode to the late Vivienne Westwood was a couture-ified exploration of workwear. Read More: Putting the Marc in Marc Jacobs
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.
Designers Nicolas Ghesquière and Chitose Abe prefer it when things aren’t what they seem, writes Tim Blanks.